In an unexpected twist in the battle against climate change, a group of scientists and bakers in Washington State have launched an initiative aimed at creating a better loaf of bread while also addressing environmental concerns. Their focus is on developing wheat blends that can help preserve soil carbon and increase crop resilience in the face of a changing climate. As one of the world’s major wheat exporters, the U.S. is particularly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change on this critical crop.
Recognizing the link between what we eat and the environment, researchers are exploring agricultural solutions that could benefit both. Farmer Keith Kisler and his wife, Crystie, who run Chimacum Valley Grainery on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, have embraced a creative approach to dealing with increasingly intense weather. They specialize in a diverse array of grains, including wheat, on their 150-acre farm, resulting in fields that resemble a “crazy patchwork quilt.”
Many of the Kislers’ grains were developed by the Washington State University Breadlab, a group of scientists who are also passionate bakers.
Led by wheat scientist and baker Stephen Jones until his recent retirement, the lab is dedicated to making grains more resilient to climate risks while also improving their taste. One of their successes is the “climate blend,” a wheat mix developed in collaboration with the Kislers that thrives in volatile climate conditions.
Developing climate-resilient bread in Washington
This blend’s resilience was put to the test during the 2021 heat dome, which brought record-breaking temperatures to the Pacific Northwest. While many farms struggled, the Kislers’ crops remained healthy due to the diverse genetics of their wheat. Jones’s strategy of fighting a chaotic climate with genetic chaos suggests that planting diverse crops can increase resilience.
This theory is proving effective on the Kislers’ farm, where the wheat is not only healthy but also produces as much as conventional wheat. The resulting flour is silky and rich, and the wood-oven-baked bread is delicious. The Breadlab’s efforts to create a tastier, climate-resilient loaf of bread are part of a larger movement to promote more sustainable dietary habits.
By encouraging the consumption of whole wheat, which has a smaller carbon footprint compared to refined grains, advocates hope to make a meaningful impact on the environment. As this initiative gains momentum, it remains to be seen whether Americans will embrace whole wheat as a way to contribute to a more sustainable future. However, the work being done by scientists and bakers in the Pacific Northwest offers a promising example of how agricultural diversity could be a key factor in adapting to a rapidly changing climate.
